When I first started this blog, I was an unemployed costumer attempting to create period gowns and costumes with very limited means. Although now employed, I still try to be as thrifty as possible. I am still "The Broke Costumer"!

In addition to posts about the outfits I make on a budget, this blog includes short research articles on fashion, history, accessories, styles, or whatever interests me at the moment.


I hope you enjoy my journey into the land of inexpensive costuming and short articles.




Friday, August 8, 2014

Victorian Wonder Woman

I have had this idea floating around in my head for almost a year, and decided to go for it for Comic Con.  I love Wonder Woman, but wanted to do a mash up costume.   I ain’t getting any younger, and I am way past the bustier, tight shorts traditional look.  I love bustle gowns, so it was natural to use this as my mash up theme. 
For me, it was all about the boots!  That is where I started.  I LOVE them!  I knew when I made my skirt, it would need to be split up the front so the boots could peek out.   I didn’t want a “saloon girl” type where it was all open, just split for easy boot access!  Standing still, the skirt should look nearly closed.  The boots are Funtasma Pleaser brand, bought on Amazon. $35.
                                                                                                
My friend Joanne planned to be Harley Quinn with a Victorian twist, so we went to the fabric district in Los Angeles for inspiration.  I knew I wanted star fabric for the bustle skirt.  There were several stores that had blue fabric with white stars, in the $3-$3.50 a yard range.   I kept passing them by thinking the blue was too light.  I found one that had more of a dark blue background, but they wanted $15 a yard!   I left thinking I would be going back soon if I didn’t find anything else.  After getting home, I realized that it WAS the correct blue after all!  Grrrrrrrr....  I did, however, pick up a shiny gold tissue lame for my overskirt.

Where did I finally get my six yards of star fabric?  Well, I never made it back to LA, so I had to order it on line. I paid $3.95 a yard - which wasn’t bad, but it was an additional $2.30 a yard to ship!!!  Lesson learned.  Buy it when you see it.  The total was for the skirt was $37.50!  I could have had my six yards for $20 if I bought it in LA.

                                                                     THE SKIRT.
Since this was for Comic Con, I didn’t want a train on my skirt.  I decided to use Truly Victorian 201 - 1870s Underskirt.   Since it was split up the front, you would be able to see the seams inside when I walked.  I used a cheap $1 a yard poly satin in royal blue and made an underskirt that was basically inside out, so the seams were inside, next to the star fabric seams.   Next came the fun part!  I pleated all around the bottom, about a twelve yard strip, down to around four yards.  Since it was all cotton, I sprayed as I ironed the pleats with a half and half vinegar and water solution.  Those pleats aren’t going anywhere, they are set forever! 

I found the cutest Wonder Woman ribbon on line and just had to have it!  It was $1.25 a yard, so I got 5 yards.

It needed a background between the ribbon and skirt fabric so I got 5 yards of red ribbon and pleated it. $3.50.


I wanted the two layers of skirt to be separate, but in the front where its split I did sew the two layers together and put red piping on the edge.  This created two “flaps” in the front when I folded back the sides. Since you could see underneath, I couldn’t wear a bustle or a petticoat.   It was going to be very flat without some kind of fluff.   I decided to gather lengths of tulle between the two skirt layers.  That worked out great!  I still wanted a bustle.  While talking to my friend Val, she offered to loan me her small bustle.  It fit snugly over my rear end without anything hanging down where it could be seen. 

OVERSKIRT.

I used Truly Victorian’s 1872 side drape overskirt.   The tissue lame was very thin and see through.  I flat lined it in white (from remnant stash), then backed the side pieces in red cotton.  It made the side drapes ripple in both colors.  A yard of red tassel ($1.50) around the front and done!    3 yards of lame were $1.25 a yard and 1 yard red cotton (used for the bodice as well) was $2.40 a yard.   

BODICE.

I used Truly Victorian day bodice pattern.  I got 3 yards of red cotton ($7.20) and used stash for the flat lining.   I needed some kind of gold for the eagle wings, cuffs and trim, but didn’t know what I would use.   I didn’t want to use the lame as it was too lightweight.   Hmmmmm.   I decided to see if I could find some gold vinyl.  I was on my way to the yardage store and decided to pop into a nearby antique/thrift store first.  So glad I did!   I found four gold vinyl place mats for 50 cents each!  I never went to the yardage store after that.   The first sleeves I made were long, with gold cuffs.  

After looking at them for awhile, I decided I didn’t like all that red on the top half.  I went with short sleeves.  These second sleeves didn’t work either, it made the bodice look like a regular shirt.   Joanne suggested I make puff sleeves and gather them onto a gold arm band.   Third time’s a charm, they worked.   I used the gold down the front of the bodice and got 12 gold eagle buttons for closures.

GOLDEN EAGLE.

Trying to transfer one of the eagle wing versions onto a bodice instead of a corset was a challenge.  I went through a few different ones until I settled on Lynda Carter’s design.  I found a photo of her costume and cropped the design.  Then I blew it up on the copy machine until I was satisfied with the size.

 I cut it out and used as a base pattern for the bodice.   It is a simplified version of hers, but I was running out of time. I cut each side as one piece instead of individual “feathers” from the gold place mats.   It was pretty flat looking so I glued it to a square of felt.  Then I outlined each side in gold bugle beads.  Finally, I whipped stitched the feathers down.  The heaviness of the beaded wings caused a bit of puckering but that’s ok with me.  Beads were a bit pricey, about $7.
Pinned on ready to sew down

ACCESSORIES.   

Arm cuffs.   I borrowed Joanne’s silver cuffs that had scrollwork on them, and used the trusty place mats again.  Since I am giving the bracelets back when I find real gold ones, I just whipstitched the gold on.  I used red star appliques as well, stitched on.

Tiara.   Last Halloween I was golden Artemis.  I used the same tiara, but backed the open filigree with the solid gold (place mat again).  Then I stitched on another star applique.

Golden Lasso of Truth.   1 yard of gold rope trim from Walmart fabric section.  Less than $2.

Necklace.  Left over jewelry findings from convention favors I made.   I just printed a cartoon of Wonder Woman and glued in the cabachon.

Wig.   I LOVE this wig!  It was an official Justice League Wonder Woman wig by Secret Wishes.  It was perfect coming out of the box and all I did was shake it out.  $21.00 on Amazon.

I wore red fishnets I have had for years so no expanse of bare thigh peeped out.

That’s about it!  The following are photos from Comic Con as well as Costume College’s gala night.


Val and her gorgeous gown
Black Widow April and Victorian Harley Quinn Joanne



Robin from League Of S.T.E.A.M.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

I've Been Nominated for the Liebster Award!

Wow I am honored!   I was nominated by Gabriela Salvador of Pour La Victoire, a wonderful and inspiring blog writer.   I admire her for her beadwork and embroidery - two things I just don't have the patience to do.  So I look longingly at hers.  She sews dainty drawers, bustles and petticoats too!   Please check out her blog here:   http://pourlavictoire.blogspot.com.

Here are the Liebster Award rules:
Acknowledge the blog that nominated you. 
Answer the 11 questions the nominating blogger created. 
List 11 bloggers with less than 200 followers that deserve some recognition. 
(I cheated on this one, as I don't know that many bloggers yet)
Write 11 questions for them to answer. 
Notify them they've been nominated. 


Gabriela has asked me to answer the following questions.   Here they are:

1. What is your favorite resource or method for researching period costuming?  I have a few favorites.   Most recently, Pinterest.  Every type of costume you could imagine is pinned in the Great Pinterest Cloud!  I also have a growing library of costuming books I graze through when I need inspiration.

2. What is your biggest frustration when you sew clothing?     Not having enough patience.  I want it done yesterday!  I am not a true historical sewer, more of a costumer, and I really need to slow down and fit myself better.

3. What is your biggest historical or sewing pet peeve ? (i.e. Marie Antoinette said "Let them eat cake"...NOT!)   Movies that don't know how to costume!   Some so called "period" movies mix eras in the same scene, or the heroine has her day bodice cut so low she is exposing her heaving bosom, or, for example, wear a huge bustle with 1890s big sleeves.  A civil war ballroom scene, and as they waltz by, you see a flash of a zipper.  You get the idea.   I yell at the movie screen.  My boyfriend now asks me "is that period?" whenever we watch a costume flick.

4. What is your ultimate costume fantasy? Which piece, if you had the skill/money/time to make, would you make?   I really love Julia Roberts evil queen costume from Mirror Mirror.  One of many on my "I wish I knew how to do this" list.












 




 5. What does the name of your blog mean? How did you decide on that name?  The Broke Costumer -   because I am!  LOL I started it when I was on unemployment and sewing with literally donated fabrics, thrift store sheets and $2 a yard fabrics from the LA fabric district.  Although I am employed now, I still try and keep my expenses as low as I can.

6. What has been the biggest sewing lesson you learned?   Listening to my friend tell me over and over to put boning in my bodices!  It really makes a difference.  I don't do it to every bodice, but I am working on it.

7. What is your favorite seam technique (french, flat-felled, etc.)?  I don't have a serger, so I generally finish my seams with pinking shears.  However, I do love french seams.  I made a Lily Munster sheer dress and had to use them to enclose the seams.  It raveled faster than I could sew!  I did flat-felled seams on a chemise, and loved the way it turned out.

8. What is your favorite aspect of blogging about your creations and/or research?   Just sharing my frustrations about not being the greatest sewer, and to share the fun stuff I make.

9. What is your accessory guilty pleasure? Shoes, socks, jewelry, hats...?

Oh, purses!  I love to do vintage and rockabilly.  I have a purse collection of about two dozen Enid Collins and Jewel Tone purses from the sixties.  I am even teaching my first class at Costume College this summer on these purses!  Yes, the ones your mother used to carry.



 

10. If you could be any historical figure, who would you be and why?  Beatrix Potter!    An author, illustrator, scientist, conservationist in a time where women were just beginning to anchor a place in the working world along side men.  She bought farms and raised sheep, cows and chickens and lived in the beautiful English countyside.  She lived to be 93 and had a happy marriage of 30 years.  She was a pillar of society.

11. What is your favorite painting, sculpture, or other artwork?
My favorite painter is James Tissot, known for his highly detailed paintings of Women's clothing.  One of my very favorites is "The Ball"   All these ruffles!  

Now I will nominate some bloggers that I enjoy:

1.  Val at  Time Traveling in Costume   http://timetravelingincostume.blogspot.com/     She was the one who invited me in to the Costume Guild and also was responsible for me starting my blog.

2.  Trudy at D'Nalof Design  http://vintageattirew-dnalof2007.blogspot.com/    She makes the sweetest Victorian gowns and well as other eras.

3.  A Frolic Through Time.  http://zipzipinkspot.blogspot.com/  A lovely blog, with history, fashion plates and sewing projects.

4.  A Fashionable Frolic.  http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/    Beautiful historical reproductions.

5.  Katherine at The Fashionable Past.  http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/   She is inspiring!  Attention to detail, hand sewn and well researched gowns.

6. http://beauty4ashes7.blogspot.com/   Beauty from Ashes.  I know she has tons of awards, but Gina is so awesome, she gets another one!

7.  http://atailormadeit.blogspot.com/   A Tailor Made it.  I love to see how theatrical costumes are made!

8. http://asartorialstatement.blogspot.com/  A Satorial Statement.  Chelsea makes beautiful Regency and 18th century gowns.  I am so jelly.

9. http://fairyfingers.blogspot.com/  Threads of my Life.  Laurie's Mary Poppins Costume is adorable!   I love this fun costumer!


10.   http://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/    Isabella's Project Diary.  Costuming,  a historical recipe and sewing challenges!

11. http://costumerscloset.blogspot.com/  The Costumer's Closet.  Loren is one of the most fantastic costumers I know.   Every year at Costume College, I drool over her latest gowns.  Thanks Loren for being an inspiration for me!

Here are questions I have prepared for you to answer on your blog:

1.   What is your favorite period movie, and why?

2.   How long have you been sewing, and what made you turn to costuming?

3.   Do you like to sew alone, or have a sewing day with friends?

4.  What is your favorite outfit you have made, and your least favorite?

5.  If you could go to any costumed event in the world, where would you go and what would you wear?

6.   What is your favorite era, and is your closet full of outfits from this era (or will be)?

7.   Which historical person would you like to meet and why?

8.  What is your next sewing project?

9.  Do you have a favorite book about costuming that you go to for ideas?

10.   Do you have a "get ready to sew" ritual, or things you must do to get into the sewing mood?

11.  Why do you blog about your sewing?


Wednesday, June 18, 2014

The 20 Second post

A sneak peek at what I am making for comic con.   NOT the traditional Comic characters :)

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Flag Day on the USS Midway

The San Diego Costume Guild was asked to participate in the Flag Day celebration on the USS Midway.  We were all very excited!  They asked us to come in 1814 Regency attire, as we were celebrating the 200 year anniversary of the Star Spangled Banner.


I don't really do Regency, and only had one horrible dress that I made years ago.  I have to redo the top on it someday, but did not have time to do it before this event.  Since it is blue and white, I decided to make a red pelisse to go over it.  However, the best part of my outfit is an awesome hat made by my friend, April.  She loves to make hats, and had recently bought the new Lynn McMaster's Regency hat pattern with a double brim.  I got to be her experiment!  She made this beautiful blank hat for me and I decorated it.  Read her blog at    http://www.artsydressmaker.com/


















 For the pelisse, I traced Val's pattern from Sense & Sensibility.   I recommend this pattern as its quite easy.  The pattern is for the spencer part only, but has variations on style.  To add the lower part, simply cut your yardage to the length you want - on the fold for the back which is pleated to the back of the spencer, and lengths to add to the front, which is attached flat from the front edge and around to the back where the pleating starts.  I chose the double breasted closing with four gold buttons, as it looked a bit more military and formal then the regular frogged closure version.


Here is a picture of April and me on the flight deck of the Midway.  April made her outfit and hat as well.  Following are several photos from the day.  Everyone's dresses were so lovely, I have added some group shots of them.  I hope you enjoy!

Taken by Marie-Jo


Me, Jerry and Val

Me, Cat and Val being silly

San Diego Costume Guild
 



The only back shot I could find!


For a full link to our Guild's photos of this event, see
http://jerryabuan.zenfolio.com/p193003352/h1b3195a0#h1b3195a0


Cost breakdown

5 yards of linen blend red for hat and coat @ $4/yd        $20
Buttons     $4
Trim for hat  $8

Total cost  $32 plus some for April!

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Myth Masque Ball 2014

After a much needed break, I started back slowing in to sewing.  Jerry and I had tickets to Myth Masque Ball, but I couldn't handle another elaborate 18th Century fantasy gown again.   I would like to go quite simple.  To get out of making a bodice, I decided to do a pretty corset with lace top underneath.  I wanted to make a simple, yet elegant skirt.  And I wanted a floral theme. First - make a floral headdress.









Searches on the internet yielded some lovely examples.  For construction, I needed a base to put the arrangement on.  On one website I saw a great idea.  Take a tennis visor, turn it upside down, and place on your head so the brim is straight up.  I covered with my skirt material.  A trip to Michael's when they had a 40% off sale on silk flowers allowed me to stock up on purple, lavender and pink flowers.  I started adding them to the covered base. I wanted flowers to hang down the sides.  I decided to take one of the thicker flower stems, bend it to the shape of the crown, and wire flowers to it.  It would be easier to attach the one, long piece to the crown rather than individual flowers.  Once the curved arrangement was completed, I used large quilting pins to pin it to the crown.  Then I filled in the spaces by hot gluing flowers in.   Then I did the back side by hot gluing flowers on.   Here is the finished front and back.


Next was the skirt. In Los Angeles Fabric District I had picked up 6 yards of a dark purple poly taffeta with black designs. It was $3 a yard. I just love making the Truly Victorian Parisian Trained skirt and decided to use it as my skirt - minus the front aprons.  I love the way it bustles at the top and flairs out at the back.  Where one would usually put a large bow, I wanted another floral arrangement to match the headpiece.  I took another sturdy stem from the flowers I bought and wired flowers on it.  To attach to the skirt, I used two kilt pins to secure it to the peplum part that  joins the upper back to the lower back of the skirt.  Here are a few photos.

As you can see from this photo, I added a light purple and black corset over a black lace T shirt.  I added my existing accessories, and I was set to go!  That is Casey, guarding the door for me.

The photos of construction I took with my cell phone, and it makes the fabric look blue.  Its not, its purple.

Now for some photos from the event.

One last photo for you....The first and last time you will see me on a stripper pole! This was the party bus shuttle back to the hotel at the end of the night :)

 Cost breakdown

$18  skirt fabric
$7  lace T shirt
$20 purple corset
$2 visor
$20 flowers

TOTAL    $67